The Disastrous Expedition In The Arctic West - Nexta Expeditions
The disastrous expedition in the Arctic west

The disastrous expedition in the Arctic west

In 1902, Otto Sverdrup, captain of the Fram on Nansen’s expedition, led his own Arctic expedition to the north of Canada. Over the period of the expedition, which started in 1898, Sverdrup and his 15-man crew charted over 250,000 square kilometres of the Arctic using the Fram and sledges. During the expedition Ellesmere Island’s west coast was explored and new islands discovered.

With the new lands claimed for Norway, Canada, which had just received rights to islands in the North West Passage from Britain just over 20 years earlier, quickly compensated Sverdrup for taking his charts as a way of taking claim. At a cost of $67,000 to Canada’s government with the transaction settled on 11 November 1930. 15 days later Sverdrup passed away and so the transaction provided financial security for his wife.

blog-image

Canada exploring the Arctic

In 1904, Canada took the reigns on exploring the Arctic region when it bought the Gauss, which had previously taken Drygalski’s German expedition to Antarctica, and renamed it Arctic. The ship was placed under the command of Quebec-native Joseph-Elzear Bernier who made a series of expeditions from 1904 to 1911 to the islands of Arctic Canada as well as making an unsuccessful attempt to navigate the North-West Passage.

Following this expedition Canada underwrote the Canadian Arctic Expedition of Vilhjalmur Stefansson which set sail in 1913. Stefansson was Canadian-born to Icelandic parents who had made statements that the British failure in the Arctic was due to their mindset that the environment was a hostile, barren wasteland where man could not survive unless he took his civilisation with him. Instead, he claimed the Arctic was a friendly place, with its tundra prairie full of rich vegetation and that the Inuit rarely travelled in groups of 10 or more. Stefansson’s ‘compelling’ argument convinced the Canadian Government and the Hudson’s Bay Company to put money down for the Karluk.

blog-image

The Canadian Arctic Expedition

With news of the funding a great deal of criticism was made of Stefansson’s ‘science’ with Knud Rasmussen and Roald Amundsen joining in. However, Stefansson’s self-publicity and the plausibility of his arguments won over the government who appointed him leader of the Canadian Arctic Expedition. The aim of the expedition was to search for new land in the Beaufort Sea. At the time there were some scientists claiming that currents and ice-drift meant there was land nearby and Stefannson was hungry to make claim to this land.

Bob Bartlett joins the expedition

Steffanson employed Bob Bartlett to captain the Karluk who brought a great deal of expertise to the expedition having been captain of Peary’s North Pole ship and at the time one of the greatest ice captain in the world. However, Bartlett had reservations about the ship and lack of organisation of the expedition. Despite this he took the ship northwards towards the Bering Strait in June 1913.

As the ship made its way northwards Stefannson told Bartlett to hug the Alaska/Yukon coastline so the expedition could go ashore and continue by sledge if required. Bartlett instead chose to follow open waters which he hoped would enable him to travel east again. On board at the time, in addition to scientists and sailors, were also Inuit hunters Stefannson had recruited in Alaska, one of which brought his wife and two children, two girls aged three and eight.

blog-image

Stefannson off to hunt

In September Stefannson suddenly announced he was heading ashore to hunt caribou and would be gone for 10 days. He took his personal assistant, the expedition photographer, the anthropologist and two Inuit hunters and the expedition’s best dogs. Soon after he left the ship was battered by a violent storm.

Stefansson claimed to have seen the ship, stuck fast in its ice floe, bring tossed westwards by the wind and that open water between his team and the ship prevented him from returning to her. He then claimed to have headed west to see if the Karluk had reached shore. On seeing two ships that were passing by with scientists and supplies for another expedition Stefansson got their attention and reported to Ottawa that the Karluk may or may not sink and those on board would probably survive. Having made his report he then headed north to seek his continent!

Stefannson’s ship drifts westwards

While Stefansson was seeking new lands the karluk and its 25 passengers were drifting west to the Bering Strait then off towards Siberia. Bartlett knew the ship’s design would not hold in these severe conditions and so he organised his inexperienced team to build igloos on, and transfer supplies onto, the ice.

Bartlett was nonetheless fortunate to have the experienced Alastair Mackay, who had been the doctor on Shackleton’s Nimrod expedition and had reached the South Magnetic Pole with Mawson and David and James Murray who was also on the Nimrod at his side. Bartlett had sledges built as well for the evacuation he knew was going to happen.

On 10 January 1914 the ice pressure finally built up to the point the ship could no longer handle and the hull ruptured. Bartlett was the last to leave hoisting the ship’s flag and putting Chopin’s Funeral March on the gramophone, which still was playing when the ship sank.

Bartlett to the rescue

Bartlett organised the setting up of supply dumps southwards along a route to Wrangel Island. He also sent a six-person party to reach Herald Island which was a smaller island South-West of Wrangel. Two of the party’s members returned reporting to Bartlett that they had found open water short of the island and the four other members were now searching for a route to it.

On hearing this Mackay and Murray, along with the anthropologist and a sailor, decided to head out alone in search for a way out. Bartlett tried to persuade them not to leave but finally gave in. He gave the men the supplies and asked for a letter absolving him of any responsibility if things went wrong and wished them well. A few days later a returning supply party told Bartlett there was no sign of the men sent to Herald Island and no ability to reach it and that Mackay’s party had been spotted completely exhausted.

Bartlett’s drive towards safety

Having enough of the situation Bartlett in March harnessed all the dogs together and moved the survivors between supply dumps, which at each an igloo had been built. Bartlett then pushed for Wrangel which they finally reached after a 20-day trek. Once there Bartlett left the survivors on the island while himself along with one Inuit went on a 45-day trek to Siberia, with the two men covering some of the most dangerous ice Bartlett had even seen.

A ship was sent out from Alaska to rescue his team. However heavy ice prevented the ship from reaching Wrangel Island. By the time another ship could make it to the island in September three of the survivors had died and Mackay’s team never seen again. It was in 1924 that an American ship found a tent and the bodies of the four men.

Stefannson reappears and blames all

Stefannson was never seen again and presumed to have perished. However in 1918, five years after the world last saw him he reappeared. Living off the land he had found the last three islands of Canada’s archipelago – Borden, Brock and MacKenzie. With the disaster of the Karluk far from people’s memories Stefannson was greeted as a hero. Following which he wrote a book called The Friendly Arctic which blamed Bartlett for the disastrous expedition.

Blog
go-leftgo-right

Of Treacherous Rocks & Audacious Fin Whales - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Of Treacherous Rocks & Audacious Fin Whales

Soon large blows filled our view; small groups of fin whales sped by heading north all the while feeding on concentrations of krill & small fish. Group after group was seen, with many simply feeding in the general area and not heading anywhere in particular. Soon it became evident that we were not simply seeing a few random groups of fins, but a very large concentration spread out over a large area of sea just north and around the islands north of the South Shetlands. Dozens upon dozens of fin whales were feeding, diving around the ship and on the horizon in massive numbers; we must have seen well over fifty fin whales in the general area of Elephant Island, something many of the guides had never seen before.
Six Seal Species You Might See On Your Greenland Cruise - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Six Seal Species You Might See On Your Greenland Cruise

If you spot a grand old whiskered man lounging in solitary splendor, there's a good chance you're looking at a bearded seal. Your Greenland cruise will take you to bays where these solitary fellows (except during breeding season) hunt for fish in the relatively shallow waters near the shores.
The first race to the South Pole in 50 years - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

The first race to the South Pole in 50 years

Before the South Pole could be reached, the question was what exactly lay at the southern ends of Earth. The concept of Terra Australis Incognita, an unknown continent, was first introduced by Aristotle, who reasoned that a southern landmass must exist to ‘balance’ the known lands in the northern hemisphere.
The bio-richness of the Ross Sea - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

The bio-richness of the Ross Sea

The Ross Sea is one of the most stunning and untouched marine areas globally. This sea, which remains frozen for most of the year, spans 3.6 million square kilometers (1.4 million square miles) along the Antarctic coast south of New Zealand. Its waters harbor a biologically diverse ecosystem of species that have flourished, unchanged, for millennia.
15 Toothy Facts About the Atlantic Walrus - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

15 Toothy Facts About the Atlantic Walrus

The walrus is one of the most recognizable animals on the planet, and for good reason. Try sneaking into a cinema with those tusks!
Five Reasons to Love St. Helena - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Five Reasons to Love St. Helena

Being one of the most remote islands on Earth gives St. Helena a unique allure. Named after a Roman empress and the mother of Constantine the Great, this island also holds the distinction of being Napoleon’s final place of exile, making it a fascinating topic of conversation.
Polar Bears and Pack Ice: 22 Pics from North Spitsbergen - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Polar Bears and Pack Ice: 22 Pics from North Spitsbergen

Last month, we explored one of the premier Arctic cruise destinations in our North Spitsbergen blog. That post not only detailed our itinerary in this breathtaking region but also highlighted some of the stunning locations where you might encounter polar bears, whales, walruses, seals, seabirds, and the mesmerizing ice formations of the far north.
Svalbard’s 12 Most Iconic Animals - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Svalbard’s 12 Most Iconic Animals

Each of our Arctic regions offers its own distinct and unforgettable features: Greenland boasts mountainous shorelines and record-setting fjords, Northern Norway is renowned for the aurora borealis and historic masted schooners, and Svalbard (especially Spitsbergen) is where you're most likely to encounter a variety of Arctic wildlife.
10 Terrific Antarctic Bird Facts - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

10 Terrific Antarctic Bird Facts

Antarctica is a premier destination for birdwatching, boasting around 45 unique species. Describing them all would require an extensive article, so here we will focus on 10 fascinating facts about the birds you can encounter in Antarctica.
Scenes from St. Andrews Bay:  12 Pics of Penguins, Seals, and More - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Scenes from St. Andrews Bay: 12 Pics of Penguins, Seals, and More

If you ever find yourself exploring the breathtaking sub-Antarctic island chain of South Georgia, one of the most captivating spots you'll encounter is the picturesque shoreline of St. Andrews Bay.
Top 10 Tips for Packing Your Polar Photography Equipment - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Top 10 Tips for Packing Your Polar Photography Equipment

One of the most common questions I get asked before a cruise is, “What photography equipment should I bring?” It’s a broad question, and answers vary based on the individual. There are, however, a few key pointers that apply to almost everyone.
Gough Island: Seabird Capital of the South Atlantic - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Gough Island: Seabird Capital of the South Atlantic

Gough Island is a remote volcanic island in the South Atlantic, uninhabited except for a small party of meteorologists and (sometimes) biologists.
Deep Sea Dwellers: 10 Facts about The Antarctic Giant Isopod - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Deep Sea Dwellers: 10 Facts about The Antarctic Giant Isopod

On average, the Giant Antarctic Isopod grows to 9cm (3.5in.) in length. This may not seem very large, but factors including low light levels, freezing cold water, and a lack of oxygen prevent these isopods from growing very large. Other species of isopods, including the Giant Isopod, have been known to grow up to 40 cm (16 inches) in length!
Living the Antarctic Dream - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Living the Antarctic Dream

From October to March, during the Austral summer, thousands of breeding gentoo, Adèlie, and chinstrap penguins flock to the Western Antarctic Peninsula to rear their chicks and feast on krill before the harsh winter arrives. Alongside the penguins, field biologists from around the world gather to study these habits for conservation research. Observing these animals is one thing, but residing in an Antarctic field station for an entire breeding season is another. One particular field camp on King George Island, managed by American scientists, has perfected this Antarctic lifestyle and has thrived for over 30 years.
Puffins: Clown Birds of the Atlantic - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Puffins: Clown Birds of the Atlantic

Puffins are part of a family of 22 seabird species known as auks, which are pigeon-sized birds that thrive on a diet of small fish and crustaceans.
Taking a polar expedition cruise delivers no shortage of show-stopping highlights, but one of the most exhilarating is lifting off from the ship in a helicopter and taking flight over the incomparable Antarctic wilderness. - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Taking a polar expedition cruise delivers no shortage of show-stopping highlights, but one of the most exhilarating is lifting off from the ship in a helicopter and taking flight over the incomparable Antarctic wilderness.

Embarking on a polar expedition cruise offers a plethora of breathtaking experiences, but one of the most thrilling is taking off from the ship in a helicopter and soaring over the stunning Antarctic wilderness.
The disastrous expedition in the Arctic west - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

The disastrous expedition in the Arctic west

In 1902, Otto Sverdrup, captain of the Fram on Nansen’s expedition, led his own Arctic expedition to the north of Canada. Over the period of the expedition, which started in 1898, Sverdrup and his 15-man crew charted over 250,000 square kilometres of the Arctic using the Fram and sledges. During the expedition Ellesmere Island’s west coast was explored and new islands discovered.
The Eight Great Penguin Species of Antarctica - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

The Eight Great Penguin Species of Antarctica

There are 17 species of penguin on the planet, but the eight you’ll most likely recognize live in Antarctica, its nearby islands, and the sub-Antarctic archipelagos of South Georgia and the Falklands. These are the core species we tend to see on our expedition cruises.
Antarctic krill: Antarctica's Superfood - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Antarctic krill: Antarctica's Superfood

The size of a paper clip, pink, krill is a shrimp-like crustacean that does not look like much. Without them, though, the Earth's marine ecosystems would collapse completely.
12 Things to Do in Antarctica - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

12 Things to Do in Antarctica

Traveling to Antarctica is unlike traveling to any other place on Earth.