The Disastrous Expedition In The Arctic West - Nexta Expeditions
The disastrous expedition in the Arctic west

The disastrous expedition in the Arctic west

In 1902, Otto Sverdrup, captain of the Fram on Nansen’s expedition, led his own Arctic expedition to the north of Canada. Over the period of the expedition, which started in 1898, Sverdrup and his 15-man crew charted over 250,000 square kilometres of the Arctic using the Fram and sledges. During the expedition Ellesmere Island’s west coast was explored and new islands discovered.

With the new lands claimed for Norway, Canada, which had just received rights to islands in the North West Passage from Britain just over 20 years earlier, quickly compensated Sverdrup for taking his charts as a way of taking claim. At a cost of $67,000 to Canada’s government with the transaction settled on 11 November 1930. 15 days later Sverdrup passed away and so the transaction provided financial security for his wife.

blog-image

Canada exploring the Arctic

In 1904, Canada took the reigns on exploring the Arctic region when it bought the Gauss, which had previously taken Drygalski’s German expedition to Antarctica, and renamed it Arctic. The ship was placed under the command of Quebec-native Joseph-Elzear Bernier who made a series of expeditions from 1904 to 1911 to the islands of Arctic Canada as well as making an unsuccessful attempt to navigate the North-West Passage.

Following this expedition Canada underwrote the Canadian Arctic Expedition of Vilhjalmur Stefansson which set sail in 1913. Stefansson was Canadian-born to Icelandic parents who had made statements that the British failure in the Arctic was due to their mindset that the environment was a hostile, barren wasteland where man could not survive unless he took his civilisation with him. Instead, he claimed the Arctic was a friendly place, with its tundra prairie full of rich vegetation and that the Inuit rarely travelled in groups of 10 or more. Stefansson’s ‘compelling’ argument convinced the Canadian Government and the Hudson’s Bay Company to put money down for the Karluk.

blog-image

The Canadian Arctic Expedition

With news of the funding a great deal of criticism was made of Stefansson’s ‘science’ with Knud Rasmussen and Roald Amundsen joining in. However, Stefansson’s self-publicity and the plausibility of his arguments won over the government who appointed him leader of the Canadian Arctic Expedition. The aim of the expedition was to search for new land in the Beaufort Sea. At the time there were some scientists claiming that currents and ice-drift meant there was land nearby and Stefannson was hungry to make claim to this land.

Bob Bartlett joins the expedition

Steffanson employed Bob Bartlett to captain the Karluk who brought a great deal of expertise to the expedition having been captain of Peary’s North Pole ship and at the time one of the greatest ice captain in the world. However, Bartlett had reservations about the ship and lack of organisation of the expedition. Despite this he took the ship northwards towards the Bering Strait in June 1913.

As the ship made its way northwards Stefannson told Bartlett to hug the Alaska/Yukon coastline so the expedition could go ashore and continue by sledge if required. Bartlett instead chose to follow open waters which he hoped would enable him to travel east again. On board at the time, in addition to scientists and sailors, were also Inuit hunters Stefannson had recruited in Alaska, one of which brought his wife and two children, two girls aged three and eight.

blog-image

Stefannson off to hunt

In September Stefannson suddenly announced he was heading ashore to hunt caribou and would be gone for 10 days. He took his personal assistant, the expedition photographer, the anthropologist and two Inuit hunters and the expedition’s best dogs. Soon after he left the ship was battered by a violent storm.

Stefansson claimed to have seen the ship, stuck fast in its ice floe, bring tossed westwards by the wind and that open water between his team and the ship prevented him from returning to her. He then claimed to have headed west to see if the Karluk had reached shore. On seeing two ships that were passing by with scientists and supplies for another expedition Stefansson got their attention and reported to Ottawa that the Karluk may or may not sink and those on board would probably survive. Having made his report he then headed north to seek his continent!

Stefannson’s ship drifts westwards

While Stefansson was seeking new lands the karluk and its 25 passengers were drifting west to the Bering Strait then off towards Siberia. Bartlett knew the ship’s design would not hold in these severe conditions and so he organised his inexperienced team to build igloos on, and transfer supplies onto, the ice.

Bartlett was nonetheless fortunate to have the experienced Alastair Mackay, who had been the doctor on Shackleton’s Nimrod expedition and had reached the South Magnetic Pole with Mawson and David and James Murray who was also on the Nimrod at his side. Bartlett had sledges built as well for the evacuation he knew was going to happen.

On 10 January 1914 the ice pressure finally built up to the point the ship could no longer handle and the hull ruptured. Bartlett was the last to leave hoisting the ship’s flag and putting Chopin’s Funeral March on the gramophone, which still was playing when the ship sank.

Bartlett to the rescue

Bartlett organised the setting up of supply dumps southwards along a route to Wrangel Island. He also sent a six-person party to reach Herald Island which was a smaller island South-West of Wrangel. Two of the party’s members returned reporting to Bartlett that they had found open water short of the island and the four other members were now searching for a route to it.

On hearing this Mackay and Murray, along with the anthropologist and a sailor, decided to head out alone in search for a way out. Bartlett tried to persuade them not to leave but finally gave in. He gave the men the supplies and asked for a letter absolving him of any responsibility if things went wrong and wished them well. A few days later a returning supply party told Bartlett there was no sign of the men sent to Herald Island and no ability to reach it and that Mackay’s party had been spotted completely exhausted.

Bartlett’s drive towards safety

Having enough of the situation Bartlett in March harnessed all the dogs together and moved the survivors between supply dumps, which at each an igloo had been built. Bartlett then pushed for Wrangel which they finally reached after a 20-day trek. Once there Bartlett left the survivors on the island while himself along with one Inuit went on a 45-day trek to Siberia, with the two men covering some of the most dangerous ice Bartlett had even seen.

A ship was sent out from Alaska to rescue his team. However heavy ice prevented the ship from reaching Wrangel Island. By the time another ship could make it to the island in September three of the survivors had died and Mackay’s team never seen again. It was in 1924 that an American ship found a tent and the bodies of the four men.

Stefannson reappears and blames all

Stefannson was never seen again and presumed to have perished. However in 1918, five years after the world last saw him he reappeared. Living off the land he had found the last three islands of Canada’s archipelago – Borden, Brock and MacKenzie. With the disaster of the Karluk far from people’s memories Stefannson was greeted as a hero. Following which he wrote a book called The Friendly Arctic which blamed Bartlett for the disastrous expedition.

Blog
go-leftgo-right

Around Spitsbergen vs. North Spitsbergen - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Around Spitsbergen vs. North Spitsbergen

Svalbard, particularly Spitsbergen, was the first polar expedition cruise destination. It's no surprise that there are numerous trip programs available in this region. Among the most unique are the Around Spitsbergen and North Spitsbergen cruises.
Discover the Scoresby Sund Fjord System in East Greenland - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Discover the Scoresby Sund Fjord System in East Greenland

Are you considering a trip to Greenland? One destination you absolutely must visit is the world's largest fjord with stunning landscapes: Scoresby Sund.
12 Things to Do in Antarctica - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

12 Things to Do in Antarctica

Traveling to Antarctica is unlike traveling to any other place on Earth.
Ice streams and lakes under the Greenland Ice Sheet - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Ice streams and lakes under the Greenland Ice Sheet

The Greenland ice sheet is a dynamic mass of dense, flowing, and deforming ice. Snow deposited on the central parts of the ice sheet is gradually compressed into ice that slowly moves towards the ice margin. At the ice margin, the ice is removed by melting or by breaking off into icebergs.
The Emperor Penguin of the Drake Passage - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

The Emperor Penguin of the Drake Passage

There are certain moments in life when a series of events combine to create an experience that is both unexpected and unforgettable. These are the times when you are reminded how fortunate you are to be a part of something that few people will ever have the opportunity to experience. This trip to Antarctica was full of these moments for me.
Arctic Seals - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Arctic Seals

Owing to the large landmasses that populate the Northern Hemisphere, the Arctic boasts the most diverse wildlife among the planet’s polar regions. Some of the most captivating Arctic animals are the marine mammals found just offshore.
Svalbard vs. the Canadian Arctic - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Svalbard vs. the Canadian Arctic

It’s easy to assume the Arctic is uniform, a vast expanse of northern freeze shaped by snow, ice, and endless darkness.
Coming Back from the Brink: The Fur Seals of Antarctica - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Coming Back from the Brink: The Fur Seals of Antarctica

Once hunted to the brink of extinction, the Antarctic fur seal is now one of the most populous and charismatic species of seal you’re likely to encounter during your Antarctica trips. Unlike other members of its large family, the fur seal has external ears, or pinnae, a short snout, and a thick coat of dark brown fur. Male seals tend to be larger than females, with weights ranging from 91 kg (200 lbs.) to 215 kg (474 lbs.).
12 photo tips to make better pictures on your Antarctica cruise - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

12 photo tips to make better pictures on your Antarctica cruise

During your trip in the Arctic or Antarctic cruise you and your camera equipment will be exposed to a variety of challenging conditions. Be careful with your equipment and protect it from the salty spray when in Zodiacs, on a beach, or on deck. Salt water and electronics is not a good mix!
Seizing the Season: Spitsbergen’s Late Spring, Early Summer - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Seizing the Season: Spitsbergen’s Late Spring, Early Summer

Most Arctic expedition cruises can be categorized into two main types: those that operate during the autumn and winter, focusing on the northern lights, and those that sail during the high season (mid to late summer), concentrating on a broader range of experiences.
Antarctica’s first Marine Protected Area - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Antarctica’s first Marine Protected Area

In October of this year, the Commission for the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living Resources, which includes 24 countries such as the United States, the European Union, Australia, and New Zealand, reached a consensus on a New Zealand/United States proposal to establish a large-scale Marine Protected Area (MPA) in the Ross Sea region.
All About Ice: Glaciers and Icebergs of the Arctic and Antarctica - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

All About Ice: Glaciers and Icebergs of the Arctic and Antarctica

In October of this year, the Commission for the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living Resources, which includes 24 countries such as the United States, the European Union, Australia, and New Zealand, reached a consensus on a New Zealand/United States proposal to establish a large-scale Marine Protected Area (MPA) in the Ross Sea region.
Polar Diving: A Supreme Underwater Adventure - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Polar Diving: A Supreme Underwater Adventure

Most scuba divers are drawn to warm waters and tropical reefs, and it's easy to see why. However, even the most thrilling experiences can become repetitive if done too often.
Polar bear feast - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Polar bear feast

The polar bear was relishing his meal; the snow and his face were turning red from the blood. As we observed him eating, our own stomachs began to grumble. It was time for lunch.
The Ins, Outs, and Ups of Polar Mountaineering & Ski Mountaineering - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

The Ins, Outs, and Ups of Polar Mountaineering & Ski Mountaineering

Traveling to the polar regions, whether to the Arctic or Antarctica, is an adventure almost no matter what you do.
8 Scientific Wonders of the Arctic - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

8 Scientific Wonders of the Arctic

The Arctic’s frozen landscape not only contains scenic gems, it also prompts fascinating advances in research. Here are some of the eight best.
Deep Sea Dwellers: 10 Facts about The Antarctic Giant Isopod - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Deep Sea Dwellers: 10 Facts about The Antarctic Giant Isopod

On average, the Giant Antarctic Isopod grows to 9cm (3.5in.) in length. This may not seem very large, but factors including low light levels, freezing cold water, and a lack of oxygen prevent these isopods from growing very large. Other species of isopods, including the Giant Isopod, have been known to grow up to 40 cm (16 inches) in length!
The Arctic Hare: Easter Bunny - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

The Arctic Hare: Easter Bunny

Although the Arctic hare’s stern expression might make it seem like the least amused member of a serious tribunal, this polar animal is actually one of the most charming creatures on the planet – especially when Easter Sunday comes around.
The Small Mammals of the Arctic and Antarctica - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

The Small Mammals of the Arctic and Antarctica

As Lillian Gish says in Night of the Hunter, “It’s a hard world for little things.”
Franz Josef Land Sites, Species, and Experiences - Nexta Expeditions
Blog

Franz Josef Land Sites, Species, and Experiences

The archipelago of Franz Josef Land is to Russia what Svalbard is to Norway: Both island groups offer excellent Arctic scenery, adventurous outdoor activities, and a good chance of seeing iconic species like polar bears and walruses - alongside a wide range of marine mammals and seabirds.